Oregon's Micro-Distillery Scene

The state of Oregon has the nickname of Beervana, a land where the craft of brewing beer was resurrected. After the release of the movie Sideways and the demand it created for Pinot Noir, the state's wineries saw benefit from the "Sideways Effect" as the grape grows so well in the Willamette Valley. Oregonians are continuing this trend, with local artisans now producing and selling hand-made vodkas, gins, rums, spirits and aperitifs.

The trend to produce hard alcohol was a logical progression, from beer to wine to spirits, although it is not progressing as smoothly as the beer and wine industries that are so strong here. The reasons for this go back to the 19th century and the laws passed then continue to have an impact today.

The production of hard alcohol has been a tradition in this country going back to the days of the pilgrims. The whiskey rebellion, a pivotal point in this nation's history, was caused by efforts of the newly formed United States government to tax the production and sale of whiskey. And we should not forget that our nation's first president, George Washington, was a brewer and distiller himself.

Most of the reasons for the production of whiskey and spirits by farmers was economic. While fertile farmland could produce ample amounts of grain and corn, the markets for these crops were limited by distances from population centers and high transportation costs. But these crops could be fermented, then distilled to a compact product that could be economically transported and sold at a sizable profit.

Then came prohibition in 1917 with the 18th amendment. The production and sale of beer, wine and spirits was prohibited until passage of the 21st amendment in 1933. This amendment left regulation of alcohol largely up to the states, and resulted in a patchwork of laws governing the production and sale of alcoholic beverages.

Oregon was at the front of the home brewing movement in the late 1970's, which led to the micro-brewing movement in the 1980's. Unlike home brewing and wine making, current laws do not permit home distilling for consumption, but despite this, a commercial micro-distilling movement has taken hold in Oregon. There are currently about 16 distilleries operating in the state, with several more working to get off the ground. Enough with the history lesson, what can we get to drink?

I recently spent a weekend in Portland and had a chance to visit a few of the distilleries in the area. I did not have time time or the liver to visit all of them and sample all that they had to offer, but I was able to get a feel for what is being produced in the micro distillery scene.

Rogue Spririts an offshoot of the Rogue Brewery in Newport, OR. While their Huose of Spirits is across the parking lot from their Newport production brewery, they have a still in their Portland Public House. While in the Public House, I was able to sample their rum, hazelnut rum, spruce gin and Dead Guy whiskey. The whiskey showed great promise, as did the gin. The hazelnut rum was quite good but needed a few more years in the barrel. I have to admit that the dark rum was a little rough.

I need to note that while Rogue has the beer brewing process wired, production of spirits takes a lot more time and patience. The typical batch of beer is bottled and ready for consumption within a week or two of starting the process. Even barrel-aged beer is ready to drink in about six months or so. A visit to a local liquor store shows that good scotch is aged for several years before it is ready to drink. If given the time, I am sure that Rogue can produce whiskeys and rums that are as good as those found in Scotland and the Caribbean.

While rum and whiskey need time, vodka and gin are ready to drink right away. I made a visit to Integrity, which is coincidently located in the same building as the Green Dragon Public House. The Green Dragon was recently purchased by Rogue and Integrity rents out of a portion of its brewing facilities to house their still and warehouse. Like most of the micro-distilleries, Integrity produces vodka and gin, as well as a hazelnut vodka and their flagship spirit, absinthe. The vodka was crisp and smooth, while the gin was floral and tasty. What really stood out for me during the tasting was the absinthe, While I am not typically a fan of the flavor of anise, I really enjoyed their Trillium Absinthe. It did not make me want to cut my ear off, and that is a good thing.

A short walk down the street took me to the New Deal Distillery. As laid back as Integrity was, New Deal was orderly and professional. Their product line is a little more rounded out and includes Portland 88 Vodka (88 proof), Hot Monkey Vodka (infused with peppers), Mud Puddle Chocolate, and New Deal Vodkas, Gin No. 1, Gin No. 3, and Coffee Liqueur. I tasted all of them and each tasting got better and better. The Hot Monkey stood out among their products and was a Gold Medal Winner at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. While they would not divulge the peppers that they used in creating this fiery drink, I am conident that haberneros were used. My one small taste left my mouth tingling for a good 30 minutes.

Deco Distilling is roughly three blocks from New Deal, but was not open during my visit. They specialize in rums, and I am anxious to try their creations.

House Spirits was on the agenda for visiting, but it was closed by the time we left New Deal. While I did not visit their distillery, I have sampled their Aviation Gin and they also produce an aquavit that is reportedly quite good.

Portland is making an effort to capitalize on this concentration of craft distillers. The website http://www.distilleryrowpdx.com/is a great resource for those looking to visit the companies involved in this movement. The site offers summaries on the distillers, plus a map, event calendar and tour information, This should be the first stop for anyone considering touring this scene.

While Bend is much smaller than Portland, it still has a (smaller) distilling community. The biggest of the group is Bendistillery, located just outside of Bend in Tumalo. Their operation includes a tasting room along with manufacturing facilities and farmland where they reportedly will be growing their own crops for production. The produce for their own line Crater Lake Vodka, Cascade Mountain Gin, Cofia Hazelnut Espresso Vodka, Mazama Infused Pepper Vodka, and Diamond 100 Vodka. The Diamond Vodka is named 100 not for the proof of the spirit, but for the number of times it is filtered before bottling.

At this point, I have to go off on a tangent When I toured the distillery in late 2010, I noticed several large bins of raw ethyl alcohol stacked up in the distilling room. I also walked by the still and ran a finger over the top of it, resulting in a dusty fingertip. Like a lot of other new (and old) makers of spirits, Bendistillery may not actually be distilling all of their product, Grain alcohol produced by other companies is purchased in bulk at nearly pure strength, then the distilleries add flavorings, botanicals and water, then filter the result to get the desired effect. Spirits such as gin and vodka do not need much if any aging and can be bottled and sold immediately. In my opinion, whether or not they are actually distilling does not matter. The flavors of their products are what really matters, and they are succeeding in their efforts.

Also in Bend is Oregon Spirit Distillers, and they produce Oregon Spirit Vodka. I have not visited them but I have a strong desire to.

A third distiller is reportedly getting into the action: Volcano Vineyards. While this is a winery that produces a fine Syrah, they reportedly are working on a vodka distilled from grapes. This is not grappa or eau de vie, but vodka, with the difference being that vodka is distilled almost down to pure alcohol, then cut with water to around 40 proof. Their product should be ready any day now.

In conclusion, Oregon has a tradition of breaking new ground in the production of adult beverages. The trend began with Beer and wine and continues with the production of spirits. Local artisans are producing new and fine spirits despite restrictive laws and regulations. Portland is reaching a critical mass of hobbyists turning to commercial production and the trend is for this movement to grow. I have sampled what is being produced at present and I am excited for what lies in the future for this trend.